Stargazer's MPV @ istargazer.ca
2002 Mazda MPV ES

Additions and Modifications

Summary:

I already had a Valentine 1 and I wanted to be able to move it back and forth between the Passat and the MPV with minimal fuss. I ordered another concealed display unit and direct-wire kit from Valentine 1 and the Add-a-Circuit fuse kit from Canadian Tire.

Procedure:

Part A: Connect power for the radar detector.

Step 1 Cut off the spade connector from the direct-wire kit and connect it to the Add-a-Circuit fuse kit. The direct-wire kit from Valentine 1 comes with a little blue thing that you use with the spade connector to splice into an existing power wire. But I prefer taking the power from the fuse box: It seems less permanent and I wouldn't have known which wire to connect to anyway. Note: In the pictures, I placed a 10 amp fuse in the accessory position. Since the V1 has it's own separate fuse, it doesn't really matter what you place there. For the final install I put in a 3 amp fuse.

Step 2 Open fuse box cover under dash on driver's side. Remove the 10 amp fuse for A/C and insert into fuse slot A on Add-a-circuit. Then insert Add-a-circuit into fuse box. In this slot, there is power to the radar detector even when the A/C is not turned on, but there is no power when the key is in the accessory position or removed. Note: Since the Add-a-circuit can handle only a maximum of 10 amps, there are only a few possibilities of where it can go (check your owner's manual). I originally wanted to use the fuse for the rear wiper (since that's what I used in the Passat), but there were some clearance problems since it was so close to the top (I could have turned the Add-a-circuit the other way around, but I wanted the wire to come out left). I then tried the fuse for the mirror defroster, but discovered that the V1 would only come on when the rear defroster was on.

Part B: Run radar detector wire from near rear view mirror to under the dash.

Step 1 Mount V1 to windshield, level and slightly to the left of the rearview mirror so that rear-facing antenna is unobstructed.
Step 2 Connect power wire to V1 and insert wire in between the headliner and windshield. Run wire to the A-pillar.  Note: I started the wire here because I didn't want to start under the dash and end up short at the top.
Step 3 Remove A-pillar cover. It's held in by 2 pins and 5 hooks (4 flexible/1 rigid).  Note: In the picture on the right, you can only see three hooks--the other two are along the bottom and hook to the dash.
Step 4 Take the wire and follow the existing wires down the A-pillar. Use the three clips to help hold the wire.
Step 5 Use electrical tape to tape the V1 wire to the existing wires (to keep things tidy) and insert it through the hole. Pull the wire through from under the dash.
Step 6 Replace A-pillar cover.  Note: The hook in the middle of the cover is rigid. You'll need to start with the bottom hooks and then slide the cover towards the roof a bit to make sure that the rigid hook goes into the proper hole. Then press the cover firmly to latch the pins. Make sure that you stretch out the weather stripping so it sits on top of the cover again.

Part C: Mount direct wire kit under dash and connect wires.

Step 1 Clean location with Goo-Gone and put direct-wire kit in place. It's held in place with something like Velcro--except much stronger--so that it is easily removable. Note: I looked at different places where I could mount the power splitter for the Valentine 1 and originally was going to mount it under the dash to the right of the steering wheel, but because the wire from the radar detector wasn't long enough I had to find a position closer to the left.
Step 2 Connect ground wire to metal screw to the right of the steering wheel.
Step 3 Take wire from radar detector and plug into direct-wire kit and tidy up . The picture on the right shows what the final install looks like.

Notes:

• I haven't yet found a permanent position for the concealed display unit. The most probable location is on top of the steering column (like I have it in the Passat), but the problem with having a tan coloured interior is that the black wire and unit show up so easily. I think the ideal location is in the dash between the volume and tuning knobs. I don't have a cassette player so that spot is blank. All that would be need to be done is to cut an opening in the panel and mount the concealed display from behind so that it would be flush to the dash. I'm afraid, however, that that custom work might be beyond my novice abilities.

• I'm happy with the final install because everything is hidden quite well. Where the V1 is located, you cannot see it at all from the driver's side. You can see it slightly from the rear, but I don't think that it will be very noticeable. Also, when I leave the vehicle and remove the radar detector, I can just tuck the wire behind the mirror.

Update: 19 July 2002

• I finally decided on the location for the concealed display unit. In addition to on top of the steering column (too obvious and would potentially block warning lights in the dash), I had also considered placing it on top of the dash near the windshield by the VIN plate (too noticeable from outside) or having a stereo installer cut a hole in the panel where the cassette player would have been (clean and tidy, but too expensive and would involve taking the concealed display unit apart).

• In the end, I thought the best spot for it was where the power door switches were. The switches would be blocked, but their operation is very straightforward and logical it's simple enough to operate by touch. This position is perfect because the V1 display unit is visible through the steering wheel--all I have to do is (to remember to) glance down when I hear the radar alert. The unit is not obvious to anyone peeking through the window and I don't have to alter my driving position at all for it to be visible.

Update: 2 August 2002

• I really like the position for the concealed display unit. It's been working out well: it's very easy to see from the driver's seat while still being difficult to see from outside (or anywhere else). I also got around to tidying up the wires and completing the job. The entire panel for the power sliding door buttons simply pops out--it's held in by two tabs on each side: all you have to do to remove it is push the panel to one side and it comes out. I then ran the wire through the opening and replaced the panel. The wires are almost completely hidden and everything is tucked neatly behind the dash.